Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Destination! Destination! Destination!

In this day and age, the globetrotting is no trotting and the old adage: «The Word is my Oyster» gets a new dimension. Even the rich are happy to share the global travel hotspots with mere mortals ( pun intended ). Apparently Bill Gates' favorite café is situated in a hole of Dubrovnik Old Town city walls. A few tables and chairs scattered around but a view to die for. Just a reminder peeps that Dubrovnik is one of the last preserved jewels of architecture be it renaissance or baroque your soul is searching for. To stroll down its streets is a step back to history and to sip a coffee in one of the side cafés is a cadre from a movie where you feel the time has stopped for a while, the very same movie where you also feel charged up, appreciating the stillness of the moment.
Enough of me blabbing on:
Senior travel cruisers, a few tips when you hit Dubrovnik:
City Wall Tour is a must, make sure that you have plenty of water with you Alternatively, book a panoramic shore excursion that will take you to Srdj Hill. Make sure that your driver is fluent in English as anything else simply would not do. Meander the streets of the Old Town, you will get to know a real taste of Mediterranean living. As for the latter, pay a visit to a restaurant, preferably the fish one.
Last but not the least; try to take a part of Dubrovnik with you, because it is for certain that you will come back at some point.

Link

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Mares swimming in Montenegro!?

There is something romantic in hearing a legend. Although they appear to be rather silly in one way, in the other, they acted as a tool for encouraging masses, especially at times of conflicts.

At the entrance to Montenegro's Herceg Novi Bay there is a spot called «Mare».
The story goes that during Turkish or shall I say Ottoman rule, a beautiful woman was snatched at the bazaars. Her fiancé put up the struggle but was executed mercilessly. The girl came back to her village some nine months after the event, heavily pregnant. The villagers blamed her for the loss of her fiancé and like an evolving Greek tragedy, she died at the birth of a baby boy. He, for his part, hated the Turks and was often seen looting with his gang the entourages of women belonging to Turkish rulers. He would often transport looted goods from one end of the bay entrance to the other. He taught his mares to swim and to come to a designated spot when hearing him whistling. Eventually, he was caught and hang and the villagers were saying that mares kept coming to that spot but to no avail.

Friday, June 8, 2007

When In Rome...

I have to express a slight dosage of disappointment, having recently read a comment, posted by a tourist whose exploration of Dubrovnik was exhausted after a mere day. Apparently, he «got fed up» with a cascade of various shadows of «red» that is including crimson and terracotta, which are donning the roofs of the Old Town's houses.

Dubrovnik is a destination for a culture-vulture meets nature type of a person. Moreover, a lot of modern day values are continuation of the past events' lessons that some of us have even learnt in recent times. My point, well Dubrovnik was the first town in Europe which had a pharmacy and during the reign of Dubrovnik Republic, it was amongst the first world stage states to have recognized the American Independence.

It is that adage «Forget your own private matters and turn to the State affairs» which the Town's ruling class was reminded each time they were entering the so called «boardroom» of power sharing.

By now, you are probably asking, what is this chap on about? Well, I do support the idea that sport on holiday is a good thing as long as you are organized in advance ( the chap you was not impressed by shades of red on the Old Town's was saved by waterspouts ) but I would stress that old chestnut of «When you are in Rome, behave like Romans do».
It helps a lot....

Saturday, May 5, 2007

Srdj Hill

There is something about Srdj Hill, which is overlooking Dubrovnik, somewhat it is nature's answer to a sacred hand of St Blaise, a saint protector of Dubrovnik. The panoramic view ahead acts as an antidote to an eye which is filled with the overwhelming view of the Old Town and the sea horizon. A large number of tourists go here to enjoy Panorama of Dubrovnik and I believe some are acquainted with the fact that this is a shrine in itself as a large number of freedom fighters in Croatia Independence War, gave their lives so that one day visitors can feel that air of freedom.
Once upon the time and long ago, Srdj Hill was dense with oak trees so it does not come as a surprise that this sacred wood was a target of numerous attacks by Venetians, who were seeking any opportunity to expand their own merchant navy fleet by cutting down oak trees, looting them and shipping them back to Venice.
However, very few people know about another peak, Velji Do, which offers even more imposing view, this time of Elaphiti Islands. This is a gem photo opportunity to capture this archipelago which was named after a Greek word ELAPHOS. Apparently, viewed from the bird's eye perspective they resemble a deer, hence a Greek world.
You learn something new every day, so they say!

Friday, May 4, 2007

Lapad Peninsula - Dubrovnik

I have been visiting Thorn Tree chat forum for a while now and I try to take part as much as possible as I value Lonely Planet's country guides. Dubrovnik is one of the most sought after destinations in Croatia and people always ask about accommodation. I have a personal viewpoint on the matter as I believe that in order to enjoy Dubrovnik experience; one has to think carefully about where they decide to stay. It goes without saying that I am a great believer of value for money bargains but to start with I stop short of renting a bed in a private house. The reason is simple, I refuse to be touted at port or bus terminal with a possibility of a wobbly bed in the Old Town, where I might be at health hazard. There are so many villas and apartments to choose from that it simply does not make sense to risk it.
Lapad Peninsula is an oasis of peace and quiet and the bus no: 6 takes you to Pile Gate. It has a shopping centre, lots of restaurants, local food produce stalls and it is not far away from nearby Copacabana beach, not to be confused with Brazilian one.
All in all, cozy little part of Dubrovnik, worth staying in.

Not all is fair in ...

I have recently come across a rather negative practice. I spoke to a very good friend of mine who lives abroad and he told me a story about a friend of his who happened to be on a visit to Dubrovnik. The gentleman was a banker for a well known City of London corporation. His hectic style of living meant that his secretary forgot to book a cab for Dubrovnik trip. The banker was going to Dubrovnik having previously arrived to London from a long haul business trip. Once he landed at Dubrovnik Airport he jumped into a cab and rounded his fare to hotel Excelsior to HRK 200. He is accustomed to different currencies as he works on the money exchange. He told a friend of mine that he fell in love with the Old Town. As he is an eager «culture-vulture» beaver, he spent a day in Mostar as he has been told that the town has architectural remains from the Ottoman period.
He was leaving Dubrovnik full of impressions until he ordered a cab from a reception desk to take him back to the airport. Everything was running smooth until he was asked to pay HRK 300. He paid for his fare without batting an eyelid, cool and composed. However, he complained to a friend of mine saying that this malpractice ruins the beauty of Dubrovnik and it is not a way forward to European integration!

Saturday, April 21, 2007

Dubrovnik Vignette

There are times when one feels privileged to have been born and bred Dubrovnik «folk». Although I have used this Americanism carefully and for the all right reasons. Back in the golden age of Dubrovnik Republic, during the renaissance boom of merchant navy prosperity, the town was ruled by influential families who for there part have been passing the echelons of power from generation to generation.
Their legacy is the opium for our eyes as such is the beauty of Dubrovnik Old Town. But their ability to preserve their hereditary status, by the odds of the nature, remained all but in the name. Yet, I bet there are very few who spot their summer residence palaces in the small villages of Cajkovici and Sustjepan, us forgetting that at the time and place, Dubrovnik Old Town was protected by city walls and wooden moats were guarding Pile and Ploce gates. Everything outside this domain was considered as countryside. I spotted two virtually abandoned summer palaces, one in the grave need of restoration and with the latest property and tourism boom I sincerely hope that some rich soul would recognize their historical significance and continue in the footsteps of the noble tradition.


www.dreampropertycroatia.com

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Travel 74 - Dubrovnik - Croatia: Peljesac Region Wines:

Travel 74 - Dubrovnik - Croatia: Peljesac Region Wines:

Peljesac Region Wines:

I must confess I am not a wine buff, not even one in making but my last visit to Croatia's Peljesac peninsula has made a surprising impact on my well being. To begin with, I was taken back by the beauty of nature and I could not believe sights of thick pine woods we encountered by the road, nor could I stop admiring Ston, a hamlet with a European prototype of a Chinese wall. This historical monument was enacted to ward off the attempts of numerous Turkish invasions during 15th and 16th century to get hold of Ston's sea salt processing plant.
Wine growing was the only way out from poverty trap for Peljesac farmers because nothing more was profitable to cultivate apart from oysters and mussles in the Bay of Ston. Economic migration within peninsula was out question as each village was guarding its habitants for the sake of security and even preservation of its own identity.
Our visit to Matusko winery was a pleasant event. Decorated in local stone, it was giving a slightly modern ambience but on close inspection, dust gathered on bottles was for real.
I learnt that «plavac» - grape sort, was a «father» to Zinfandel and Grgic family, who emigrated to the US between the WW1 and WW2, introduced this sort to the Nappa Valley region.
As far as I could make it Postup, Posip and Dingac are all from the «plavac family».Their esquisity and richness in tannins is a result of the constant exposure to sun and the ground whose mixture is a balance of rich and poor soil.
Wine tour is an event worth visiting if for nothing but the landscape which has blessed the fishermen and made farmers work harder to achieve the richness of local wine.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Cruising...Everyone on board!

We, at Travel 74, have been thinking a great deal about cruiseliners visiting Dubrovnik en route to Greece, as part of the Eastern Mediterranean leg of their journey. We wondered why the vast majority of these people opt for a bus shore excursions which all have the same format; bused them in the Old Town, bused them out of it.
Take them en masse to a typical regional village and treat them to a performance of a local, traditional dance.
No objections whatsoever, but instead of curiosity, it looks to me sometimes, that individuality has killed the cat.
There is so much to encounter, both in terms of local culture and history, and doing it, at your own pace, must be a bonus.
However, we compared our own travel experiences abroad and came to the conclusion that element of unknown always prevailed when making a decision to take a local tour.
Here are some instructions to shore excursions that will leave a lasting impression.
When in Dubrovnik and wanting to explore local spots with a good panorama view, always insist on your driver's English fluency.
Private tours in the Port of Dubrovnik are value for money be it you pay EUROS 50 per hour and per car and yes, please pay attention to PER CAR bit. After all, you are in charge of your itinerary and your holiday.
In any case, enjoy the most beautiful town in the world and the old chestnut of a saying: There is only one Dubrovnik.

Saturday, April 7, 2007

Montenegro

Our trip to northern Montenegro was a true adventure for it was snowy at times and we were excited as we do not get snow in Dubrovnik. The scenery on the way to Niksic was breathtaking and one really ought to check it in person as any attempt to describe it words would be pointless. The town of Niksic was depressing and we were glad to have zoomed through it, continuing our journey to Ostrog monastery. The drive that led up to it was the most exciting and at times daunting but it was well worth it. This jewel of a monastery, chiselled in the rocks is a sight that makes you pause and think about human persistence to defend life as the monastery was the legacy of St Vasilije Ostroski, a monk who resisted Turkish rule some 600 years ago. His tomb is visited by many denominations, Christians and Muslims alike who search solace of a prayer for their beloved ones.
Leaving Ostrog we headed for Rijeka Crnojevica. The motorway route, if you can call it one, was ridden with tomb stone fashion reminders of people who died in car accidents. Driving in Montenegro is not for the light hearted, Montenegrins are reckless drivers.
Once we have found the country lane route towards Rijeka Crnojevica we were relieved. Meandering lane was leading us through rocky countryside accompanied by ravines. In one word, truly amazing. As for Skadar Lake and lake estuaries, any attempt to put it in words is futile.
As they say: Seeing is believing!


www.visit-montenegro.com

Monday, March 26, 2007

A pilgrimage to Medjugorje.

One of our friends told us that he spent a week end in Kravice. Apparently, a beauty spot not many people have heard of. Indeed, he was right as we were told about it by the word of the mouth. We wanted to go to Kravice just to see what it looked like in early spring and while we were heading in that direction we decided to visit Medjugorje. Our ride was a pleasant one, the roads were almost empty, I guess the people stayed in the town and it had something to do with the fact that it was Sunday, a rather holly day in Croatia. Those who planned to go in the countryside have done so on Friday and Saturday.

We visited Medjugorje first, and it was buzzing with people who have come from all over the world to pay homage to the Virgin Mary., as far as Brazil and Philippines. I have to say that all members of our team felt the spiritual harmony despite the fact that some of them are atheists.

We decided to have a picnic lunch, spreading our blankets on one Kravice's meadows. As always we were touched by unprecedented beauty of the place which has all resemblance of Plitvice park but on the smaller scale.

Happy and spiritually enlightened we were of our way to our beloved Dubrovnik.
Medjugorje and Kravice were indeed shore excursions to remember!

From Mostar with Love...

We set off on expedition read business trip to meet up with some of our partners.The whole journey happened to be more challenging that the conquest of Mont Everest. All in all it was well worthed. Our first stop was a village of Trsteno. Many have heard of his Arboretum and its status as a summer residence of counts which had been ruling Dubrovnik Republic in the golden age of renaissance. However, what really made an impression on us was the actual village pier and the whole descend to it. This is really a typical example of the fact that Croatia is the last quiet corner of the Mediterranean where local tradition together with beauty spots remain untarnished.

Inspired , and re-fuelled in spiritual sense we continued our journey towards Hutovo Blato, an oasis of nature, a home to various birds, to attend a meeting with the park's management. Little did we know that the route which we took was a rather adventurous, having realized in the middle of our drive that this is the longer way to our destination. Never mind, was our way of consoling ourselves. The more we drove, the more we realized that this would be a right little adventure for those who want to escape the urban jungle of New York and London., as the scenery of rocky hills was simply stunning.

Hutovo Blato rose to its expectation and proved to be a hidden paradise for nature and bird lovers. Our host Zeljka welcomed us in a true spirit of local hospitality. The tour we did was slightly short but captivating. We felt like Robinson Crusoes. Saying «good bye» to Zeljka but for a long, we continued in a direction of Pocitelj.

Every time I come to Pocitelj, I feel that excitement airing of the oriental which sets you back in the Turkish rule times and one ponders what was it like to live in that period.
We decided to continue in the direction of Mostar and to have a coffee and rahatluk in the old quarter .It would be crime to visit Mostar without paying homage to the Old Bridge. Despite the fact that it is new as it has been destroyed in the recent war, our lips automatically refer to it as the Old Bridge. A moment of sentiment and nostalgia I would suggest or else what?
The locals are in their element, sipping Turkish coffee and basking in the sun. As for us we were gathering our impressions through the lenses of our latest digital cameras and slightly tired on our way to Dubrovnik.

All in all, a rather good day!

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

From St Patrick to St Stefan

We, here at Travel 74, have decided to start writing an e-blog. Nothing revolutionary, one would comment, yet an air of excitement was filling our office space and the starting date of our writing adventure was March, 17 – St Patrick's Day. We were invited to a party which was held, yes you are guessing rightly, in an Irish pub. Our friend and client Kieran could not hide his disappointment when we informed him that we had previously scheduled meeting in Montenegro which we could not cancel. We invited Kieran with us but he could not be lured away from a pint of Guinness and the fellow members of Irish community in Dubrovnik.

Journey through Montenegro is always an adventure.Driving a car requires a heavy dose of alertness, the road alongside Riviera is hardly a motorway, more of a country lane. Entering Boka Bay one truly becomes taken by the stunning scenery of Boka Bay. The view of the surrounding mountains makes you feel powerful and it never ceases to amaze you how tall they really are, acting like guardian angels to the quiet waters of the bay.

We stopped at Morinj to have a lunch and what a treat it was. We ate «njeguski steak», and the atmosphere of the al fresco dining was one to remember as this hidden restaurant is an oasis of ducks, peacocks and goes without saying, traditional Montenegrin cuisine is tasty and a real value for money.

The first meeting we had was in Kotor and our business partners always tease us that Kotor is Dubrovnik in small with more character as the streets are indeed more narrow than in Dubrovnik hence cosier to an eye.After finishing our first meeting, we had to leave for Sv. Stefan and the more we go there the more we appreciate this gem of a luxury resort.
Spurred by our adventurous spirits we could not resist to pay an homage to Cetinje.We forgot that we never visited Cetinje in March and boy did we have fun coming down the meandering,narrow road. The fog was setting in and the whole descend to the coast resembled a scene from a horror movie. However, we all agreed that such experience is a one to remember and unique, miles away from the concrete jungle of European cities.

Full of impressions, tired we made our way to Dubrovnik and the moment we saw the Old Town from the distance, our hearts started beating faster.The most beautiful town in the world!!!