Friday, January 9, 2009

Peljesac wine tour

Every time, we set off on a Peljesac wine tour, I cannot but admire from the very start of our journey, the beauty of the coast, tranquility of the sea and picturesque offering of nearby villages which we pass somewhat in stride.
Two nearby villages of Zaton Veliki and Zaton Mali are not only beauty whiffing the smells of Mediterranean pine trees but also an oasis of peace. Nowhere in Dubrovnik Riviera is so shielded of massive scale visitors, bear in mind that people coming here throughout summer time are almost locals as they have been coming for the yanks. The locals count the summer days asking each other about the arrival of certain Hans, Dieters, Thomas’s, Julies and so on.
After Zaton, our route passes by the village of Orasac. I have often felt it as a place acting as a hub for the other six villages scattered around, the likes of Gromaca and Ljubac, this last is thought to be known for its amphitheatric valleys. Orasac was the refuge of the chief magistrate of Florence back in 1512, Piero Soderini.
The next village of Trsteno is the home of the two oldest oriental plane trees, the village is a residence of famous Gucetic-Gozze family who set up the first Arboretum in 1492, to accommodate botanical specimen brought back by merchant seamen at the height of Dubrovnik Republic might. The park around the residence is a legacy of Gothic Renaissance and 19th century neoromantic period. The facts speak for themselves but words are not enough to capture that moment, precisely the one we are seeking on any given shore excursion. To be there, „to buy the T-shirt“ so to speak is the only way to get the feel of the place. You may well say, nothing new in this statement but I cannot underline it enough that this is the case.

And precisely this theory comes to life passing the village of Slano. I have often recalled the words of a „New Russian“ who was filthy loaded although he lacked in the department of personal manners. However, his hidden sincerity came to the surface when he even admitted to the fact that he wished he could by the house there, not that he did not have the money but he wondered who would be a fool enough to sell their own heritage as it is priceless. Was that the case of his own dacha, I would not be able to comment but moving on, on this literary journey I come to Ston.
People often think that you lie when you guide them through Peljesac wine tour and when you mention the fact that Ston has the second biggest walls after the Chinese ones. A few understand the legacy of Ottoman Empire, the fact that the „Turks“ as we call them. Rule this part of the world for 500 years. Often people express the signs of confusion stating that the Turkey is so far away so how come they were present here. And when we explain that the salt manufactured then in the 15th century is still manufactured now, people literary take this with a pinch of salt. At the end they are impressed what they see and they hurl towards the fortress, part of the city walls, to capture that moment on the latest digital gizmo.
To be continued...

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